The designer mentioned the perspective of the frescoes in the Sistine Chapel as a reference point for the way that dresses were multiple lengths—or shorts had pannierlike pockets— so that your eye was drawn into them. Same effect with the black and colored borders that “framed” the clothes. The idea was apparently three-dimensionality. That’s why the referencing of Anish Kapoor made a little more sense, given that there was something more sculptural than painterly about the silhouettes. And if all of that sounds a bit much for a fashion show on a Saturday morning in Milan, you should also know that the clothes in this particular Fendi show were a lot of fun. Lagerfeld’s crepe silk Big Bang shift was Milan’s best cocktail dress; the leather coat with the upside-down F for Fendi was the cleverest piece of Russian Constructivist branding we’ll see all season; and the bags and shoes should keep kids entertained for hours. One pair, for instance, arrives with a set of uppers that will allow you to compose your footwear at will, Lego-like. And by hand, of course.
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- Alexander McQueen 2017 Fall Ready to Wear Collection
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