It was all in the fabrics. The kurtalike layering—short jacket over long tunic over pants—may be in the air but it’s long been a staple of the Armani design vocabulary, especially in that ineffable silver gray. When color crept in, jade or turquoise, it was abstracted with the gray to evoke a blurry futurism, with the shimmer of distant stars.
And there’s no one who does the navy of a night sky like Armani. Harking back a couple of years to his Tuareg collection, he draped midnight silks and organzas in languid pajamalike configurations that spoke of an ease so seductive it was almost narcotic. He pushed it more and more as the show’s eveningwear approached, trapping constellations and starlight in wide pants, draped tunics, floating skirts, and sheer shawls. Clothes for cosmic dreamers, indeed.