The collection is Japanese in key fabrics (like a textured cotton/silk seersucker) and Japanese in key shapes (as in the robe-like oversize kimono coats). It’s also, thanks to exaggerated proportions, like those of an extra-long, single-button suit jacket, the house’s most challenging menswear proposition in several seasons. Contrasting the larger volumes is a new austerity. Here the new-classic leather jackets brought back season after season get their sparest treatment yet: all clean lines and no lapels, just a banded detail that looks like nothing so much as a car grille.

JUNE 27, 2012PARIS

By Matthew Schneier – style.com