“These clothes are a collector’s dream, for eyes that have seen a lot of things, hands that have touched a lot of things.” says Sartori.

The first was a labyrinth (“We get lost in beauty,” Sartori enthused), where leathers, suedes, and denim pieces were artfully arranged among the shrubbery. Trenches, safari jackets, and bags had Berluti’s signature patinated effect, achieved with a five-step process so laborious it makes the fingers cramp merely thinking about it. But the result was scarcely the trench as we know it. Likewise, a jacket in suede woven in chevrons, inspired by the late artist Gioppe di Bella, who weaved his canvas before he painted it. This is fashion in a different dimension, just as Sartori says. So rarefied, so demanding that it can only be produced in small amounts (no more than 200 shirts, for instance). But the designer’s dream is anything but small. The presentation ended where Berluti began, with a rainbow of shoes in a style named, appropriately enough, the Alessandro, after Alessandro Berluti himself, who created it a century ago. There were 100 different colors available for order. Collector or not, that sounds like literally something for everyone—or, at least, anyone who fancies getting lost in beauty.

JUNE 29, 2012PARIS
By Tim Blanks – style.com

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