Monasticism and sensuality. That’s an unlikely combination, but it’s one that’s always turned Francisco Costa on, and he delivered on both fronts with a pre-fall collection that was at once covered-up (we can confidently say we’ve never seen sheared mink dickies until now) and provocative. The provocation came not only courtesy of the deep-V plunge of a leather tunic and thigh-high slits on narrow, below-the-knee skirts, but also via unusual fabric choices, like the rubberized vinyl of a trenchcoat in a color that Crayola once would’ve called flesh.
Overall, the silhouette was quite elongated. Costa experimented with narrow shoulders, and full, almost rounded sleeves on jackets with extra-wide lapels. “The future is about new construction,” he said after the presentation. “You have to show something new. We really worked on that.” Exposed seam allowances on the exterior of the garments could’ve created a raw, unfinished feeling, but on the contrary, these clothes felt quite polished. Credit for that goes to the luxe, organic materials he juxtaposed that vinyl with—materials like alpaca, double-faced cashmere, and calf. Editors walked out into the December chill wishing for Costa’s wide-lapel, double-breasted coat in vicuna.